Tata Naka, London Fashion Week

Tata Naka, aka Natasha and Tamara Surguladze, celebrated their first 10 years in the fashion industry with this incredible show last night. They "presented their personal interpretation of cultural clash between opulence of the Indian Maharajah and Western simplicity". "Inspired by Colonial India, the period of dramatic changes and the way Indian civilisation adapted to British culture, dressing and education is interpreted by combining structured western tailoring with soft shapes and draping typical in Indian dress". Interestingly with the very 'Blue' light that we experience in the UK in which Indian colours tend to dull made absolutely no difference - the collection is truly amazing. The full flavour of the collection of course was underpinned with the incredible installation from Chameleon Visual (oh you must know them by now as they produced the incredible Ostriches at Louis Vuitton). Fabulously coloured jelly in vintage tea cups were served to all of the major players here in attendance from brilliant Silver hostess trolleys. Ceramic Parrots, silver candelabras, glass stands and the most delicious flowers and furniture created the focal point around which this show hung. True to form, Ms. Davidge (Chameleon Visual) simply dissolved away into the background as if she were never there.......she was......somewhere, but no egos were stroked, the job was done to the perfection this wonderfully formidable woman demands and perfectly beautiful in its execution. You must have Chameleon Visual on speed dial (they are incredibly selective so don't expect a reply) http://www.chameleonvisual.com

Nicole Farhi, London Fashion Week

After and exhausting day of shows for London Fashion week, here are just some of my highlights. The Nicole Farhi show at the Royal Opera House here in London was jammed to the rafters (quite literally) with paparazzi, fashionista and just about every glossy magazine globally. From my vantage point I was able to view the viewers veiwing the specatacle which was met with gasps and salivating wows. I must admit it was a very stunning show and with the prescence of the alpha editors Anna Wintour, Susie Menkes and Hilary Alexander of course added to the whole experience too.

Chameleon Visual, London

Image Courtesy and Copyright Emma Davidge

With mass branding polluting the high street it is always so exciting to find hidden gems around and to share these with you. If you haven’t seen the incredible Ostriches at Louis Vuitton (or the previous installation both of which can been seen here in earlier entries) or Theo Fennell at Harrods, Tata Naka, Vogue….the list reads like a who’s who of top names, then where have you been?
If you don’t know the company who produces this incredibly visual stuff, I’m not surprised. One of this industry’s best kept secrets has to be Chameleon Visual headed by the ever talented Emma Davidge remained under my radar for some time although through pure serendipity our paths crossed at a recent event. Oozing the energy that one wishes one could bottle, Davidge is simultaneously wonderfully inspirational and incredibly exhilarating to spend time with. As Davidge herself says, “you either love me or hate me”. I myself prefer the former.
With her straight-talking-telling-like-it-is-pulling-no-punches attitude working fiercely to achieve her creative outcomes, her clients have her undivided attention. Perfectly courteous and oozing with passion, she won’t necessarily be your new best friend – she doesn't have time - but you will have her full and undivided attention. While many competitors may have a ‘take no prisoners’ philosophy in this competitive industry, Davidge can be found forming and developing close working relationships with Artists, Artisans and Designers to enhance the client and customer experience rather than spending countless hours undermining those around her.
Once the brand / event / exhibition or any other project has been delivered to Davidge’s absolute satisfaction, don’t expect her to hang around and stroke your ego, she wont. The next job is calling (or has certainly already called) and like the wonderful ephemeral creature she is, she will dissolve into the background reforming and regrouping her team ready for the next ‘selected’ job in hand.
As a self confessed “control freak” I imagine she’s one very tough person to work with. Having said that of course, one could argue that as the outcomes she delivers are so superb that how could she not be? And if she weren't, would the outcomes have been so notable in the first instance?
Davidge is probably one of the few people that I am aware of who truly understands luxury brands and is able to think beyond just one brand in one site in one city but also considers how her latest creation will travel and adapt to their new surroundings and wow the next audience without compromising its design. If you happen to swing by any of her installations whatever time of day or night one can always find tourists, passers-by, shoppers, drivers, lovers, all stop and capture the spectacle produced by Davidge. Now that’s powerful.
One may, of course wonder, that with Davidge being so demanding of herself and her team and with work produced with such intricate precision and at this incredible level, if she wears thigh high military leather boots with very sharp spiked heels when working? Well, possibly, but only if they are this seasons Louboutin’s of course.

http://www.retailstorewindows.com/ proposed new entry for Wikipedia:
Davidge Control is “the term used to describe a person, passionate about their work in the context of visual merchandising and the actions of a wonderfully creative self confessed control freak, expecting excellence and delivering nothing less.

http://www.chameleonvisual.co.uk/

Image Courtesy and Copyright Emma Davidge

Image Courtesy and Copyright Emma Davidge

Lynda Carter aka Wonder Woman

Have you had a surreal moment recently? I have. Can you imagine one of your teen icons, well, OK not quite one of my icons but certainly part of my growing up entertainment, standing in front of you just a few metres away? Having spent the evening in a "personal, unrecorded moment" with Lynda Carter, otherwise known as Wonder Woman with her enormous hair, golden lasso and stars and stripes revealing outfit, I feel strangely unhinged. Singing her way through a multitude of cover songs, kind of lounge lizardesque jazzy kind of stuff that these old Hollywood 'stars' of yesteryear seem to do every time they come to London to do their one / two night shows here. I was compelled to go and see this show. Part of me wanted my illusions completely shattered. I was pleasantly surprised that actually the former Miss. America from the early 1970's, Lynda Carter really does have a very good voice and was actually very entertaining - it clearly was my frame of reference that was at fault here. I do still cringe however when I hear the saccharin apple pie stuff although I feel that I was desperately and cynically trying to find the flaws in this whole event. Well, truth be known and to give Lynda Carter credit she actually delivered far more than I expected. I'm not completely won over however, as the whole show promotion was hung around the Wonder Woman stuff, but that's marketing for you. Still, this was the last show, it did what it said on the tin. I am still a little in Surreal mode though.

Zara, London

As regular readers will know, I'm not a huge fan of large 'multiple' brands and their out-of-the-manual-schemes, although while this brand do their usual brand stuff, they clearly allow this store here along Oxford st. in the centre of it 'all' to be rather more edgy - thankfully. This scheme contains the product, but is styled in such a way with its multiple layers of complexity, giving it the kind of depth one would always wish to view from this brand. I do love the product anyway and have shopped here many times with them but am even more drawn in to peruse this store in particular just to be part of this experience. With its vintage mannequin head, theatrical mirror, bandaged utensil head dresses, gramophone and furniture, how could one not enjoy it. So much to view in one relatively tiny space, that one cant help but feel drawn in and want to investigate a little further. If all of these stores shared the same philosophy I wouldn't have time to work as the pull of this kind of spectacle is so compelling and potent, at least to me. Anyway, do go and have a look at what these guys have produced, they clearly have their fingers on the fashion pulse and if you want to know whats 'happening' but cant afford McQueen or Vuitton, then check out this store.

Diesel, London

Having really enjoyed the schemes from this brand for quite a long time and particularly this store along Bond St. here in London which always produces something a little different from so many of its other stores. I am, I must admit a little disappointed with this scheme, not because it doesn't work or that I don't like it (because I do), I just feel that I have seen it all before - and I have. As so few people (it seems) follow the windows around the world, or at least either admit it or talk about it, perhaps these brands think that no-one 'out there' will notice that the same / similar scheme has appeared elsewhere and that its OK to repeat the same scheme in another format or another material for an unrelated brand. Is it? Well, I do feel a little cheated when I see this kind of thing happening. If you turned up to a party wearing the same outfit as someone else, would you go home? grin embarrassed? stay and laugh about it? Or be philosophical about it? As you can see from the images below, both Louis Vuitton and Dior (2008) have previously already installed something similar albeit in a different material and I have to wonder who is actually creating these schemes at Diesel and how much knowledge they actually have? Big brother informs me that this brand check out this site and blogs per se are usually about whats happening out there, in here or at least somewhere and have a direct role in marketing and influence (perhaps to a point). I would have produced something quite different for you based on an informed process, however, you never asked me.

House of Fraser, London

I was strangely drawn to this scheme at House of Fraser while perusing and flaneuring Oxford street here in London the other evening. Barbara Hulanicki must be 'kerchinging' this month from her haven in Miami whilst this brand promote London Fashion week from this one tiny window - and incidentally on the side of buses etc. Clearly this is a sign of bigger things to come but I just cant drag myself to google to find out what is going on out of sheer lethargy of the google lifestyle and Bing world that I find myself in. However, I do love the Black finish on these mannequins with their, just almost, Clockwork Orange eyelashes. It does look wonderful and the team here have done a fantastic job which I have great joy in sharing with you, however, I must admit that these 20th Century references to nostalgia bore me to tears. How often to we need to rake this stuff up, hey? If its not the 40's, its the 50's. If its not the 50's its the 60's. I know we live on an island but do we need to have the dull Cool, Rule (and all the other adjectives) Britannia mentality for much longer from which we seem to need to define ourselves? Can we just be British, creative and move forward (and supported in that please Prime Minister) and ultimately simply be confident and enjoy the country and world rather than be told by some populist dross glossy 'trend' glam rags that we should keep digging around in the past which clearly is where this stuff comes from?

Selfridges, London

I think Selfridges here in London has a new shoe department? OK well, judging from their latest scheme they clearly have. You have to admire the humour of this scheme from the ever creative team here. It is subtle in places and unashamedly and wonderfully brash in others. Based on popular nursery rhymes the scheme takes us on a journey of just about every combination and perspective to communicate this (they have a lot of windows). Movable parts, giant shoes, the old lady who lived in a shoe, Dorothy (or rather a friend of) in glittery bow tied flats screams from another window. If you pop along the side of the store there is an even greater treat of concept shoes that would make Lady Gaga salivate - maybe she already has these who knows. Anyway, in the tradition of department stores, from an historical perspective, one could stay all day here to enjoy the spectacle, so why don't you.

Louis Vuitton, London

We have all marvelled at the latest (and second) installation at the new Louis Vuitton store along Bond st. here in London, although have you been inside yet? An installation of vintage LV luggage, moving fixtures, digital staircases, hand painted luggage in a glass trunk, so limited in its production that you may possibly be the only person in the world to own one. While way, way out of my affordability - although that doesn't matter as this is what makes these things so special - it does create an incredibly exciting experience. On the first floor is the exhibition space with handmade Adel Rootstein mannequins, painstakingly produced and suspended in front of old style theatrical mirrors which reflect the spectacle around this site. The details, details, details. This site truly is extraordinary. A variety of figures and fixtures give each area its own personality and each delivering the perfect rhythm around the space which in turn are supported with Art installations that would rival the greatest international collections. Can you imagine the high street multiples producing something like this? Certainly not. We would never leave. I don't want to wish time away, however I cant wait for my next luxurious fix from this brand and to share it with you. Judging by the queue outside of this store recently, I guess others cant either. If you haven't been here yet, I can guarantee that you too will be mesmerised.

Craig Hewitt, Graphic and Digital Designer

Image Courtesy and Copyright Craig Hewitt

Image Courtesy and Copyright Craig Hewitt

With such apparent pressures to look good (and however we interpret what looking good actually means) that we must look thinner (the only thing my bum looks big in is underwear fashioned from dental floss – not that I’ve ever tried and please don’t try to visualise that), that we must look younger (or lie about it) is growing more and more within male communities. However, as we grow older perhaps the focus on looking 20 years old again clearly becomes an untouchable and obviously unobtainable concept? Well one would have thought so. Have you ever scanned the personal adverts at the back of newspapers or magazines and wondered who actually replied to any of them? Who were the people behind them writing this stuff and what kind of lives they lead? If anything we all have a view about it or at least maybe have wondered about it?
With the massive rise of internet dating and internet chat – with webcam too no less - we come ever closer to the ‘real thing’ that (possibly we think) we may be looking for. From a male perspective this is possibly less about browsing and scanning with a cursory glance and more about semi-feverish hunting – as males tend to do. What we often find of course is that the thrill of the hunt was far more exciting than the end result, leaving us to wonder why we ever spent so much time chasing ‘it’ in the first place (sound familiar?). What is particularly fascinating however is how the internet allows us to be whatever we want to be, whenever we want it, how we want it and so on. We can become the fantasy guy, the glossy magazine cover guy, the guy who can crack walnuts between his thighs, the guy with cruel eyes, the blonde stallion and all the other dreadful stereotypes. We can be the lawyer, the accountant, the Doctor, the astronaut, and whoever else we want to be, in cyber dating. This type of digital social interaction which is clearly not actually particularly sociable can perhaps be a sanctuary and haven for the deliberately creative, deftly crafted and often also demanding personal profile descriptions. That tiny blurred and grainy image of some 20 – 30 year old called ‘HornyandHot’ is perhaps more likely to be pasty and saggy skinned 70 year old Gerald, dog food tester rather than Pascal the sun kissed Parisian supermodel aged 25. Of course, that’s a massive generalisation which I have completely fabricated, there’s nothing wrong with 70 year old people who test dog food but don’t breathe near me please Gerald – oh you get the gist. However, it is perhaps fair to say that generally, we would prefer old age to creep up on us, rather than all over us (however old we are).
The designer, Craig Hewitt, explores these concepts and notions of misleading descriptions through his digital art works - portraits which unravel some of the extremes that people go to, to be perceived other than they actually are. Their agenda perhaps as Hewitt describes is “to be chosen, I’m Mr. Right”. Hewitt analyses the language of profiles and what each of us considers beautiful or otherwise. Hewitt’s subjects with their shiny, metallic surfaces begin their life as photographs taken by him or gleaned from personal profiles (with the owner’s permission of course) which then go through a process he has developed using filters and layering, adding and subtracting various visual elements until the final piece is created. What particularly interests Hewitt is what and who is actually behind these visuals. “It is, after all what is not said in personal profiles as much as what is that fascinates me”.
As a commercial application I find the concept particularly exciting. Whether the visuals are created within a three dimensional format within which product can be placed or whether the visuals themselves can be adapted to cover large areas of spaces and places and form focal points within spaces, I don’t know. As ever the only limitation here is our own imagination. Now, where's that dental floss, I need to fashion a little something for myself.

Image Courtesy and Copyright Craig Hewitt

Image Courtesy and Copyright Craig Hewitt

The Sting, London

The Sting here at Piccadilly Circus have been producing some interesting stuff recently. Their merchandise is a just a little like everyone else's on the high street, although their presentation is actually very vibrant, fun and very appealing to their target market. With such enormous window spaces to fill, there's no wonder large format graphics are being used. It would seem quite enviable to have this many windows to 'play' with although with the high volume turnover that this store must have, these would prove incredibly difficult and impractical to maintain. Still, there are some interesting bits within their scheme which are fun, such as the mannequins in the Grey high gloss finish with realistic faces. Each of the windows also have a variety of themes based around the various brands carried in the store.

Gucci, London

Gucci, London.

Fortnum and Mason, London

If you want to view quality of product presentation you can do no worse than look toward Fortnum and Mason here in London. With painstaking and meticulous detail these guys strive for excellence, achieving nothing less. Their current fantasy woodland scheme with church ruins, brick walls and trees carrying their exquisite product, out sized toadstools and mossy bases is their latest offering to the high street. I know how hard these guys work and I always look forward to capturing their schemes. This is a traditional style of presentation which requires absolute dedication - text book stuff really. Also, the skills and knowledge that these guys have are sadly dying with so many 'multiple' retailers on the high street producing out-of-the-manual-stuff, so if you want or need to know how to do this kind of work correctly with the same conviction and authority that these guys have then keep following them, and you cant go wrong.
Unfortunately, my images don't do this scheme justice, so if you can, swing by the store and have a look for yourself.