10 Commandments of Visual Merchandising for 2010

As we wave goodbye to another year, it is as always a time to reflect on the achievements and perhaps also things that didn't work so well throughout 2009. As 2010 approaches me like a speeding bullet, and as I write this in my tiny hotel room in New York's Meatpacking district, the heating still continues to fry me and the cold air from the Hudson rushes through the my open window as I try to maintain a sane level of warmth and coolness in order to work. Soon I will be back in London ready for the new season, while the Sale period works its way out of the retail, commercial and creative calender. In the meantime, I thought I should look through my archives to identify perhaps some of the considerations for 2010 which perhaps can either be avoided or employed as part of the overall process of this industry. The 10 Commandments listed below are not necessarily in any order and none is any more or less important than the other, however, as an industry we provide a service, creativity, commerciality, individualism, entertainment, dedication and so on and I do hope out there somewhere some of these thoughts will be read, and possibly acted upon in order for us all to keep moving forward into the next decade. They can of course be discarded, ignored and ridiculed. Does it really matter? Well yes it does. We are customers and consumers ourselves just as much as providers within this 'industry' and unless we have an overall view of what is actually happening out there, in here, else where or at least some where then we are condemned to repeating the same mistakes over and over again, year in and year out, while the customer or consumer becomes ever more sophisticated and leaves us with often a very large space full of merchandise which we cannot sell. Anyway, below are just some thoughts.......

1. Thou shall employ, support and maintain the professionals in this industry.

Sadly over the past year or two countless visual merchandisers, designers, display crew have been made redundant from their jobs. These teams often work late into the evening and all through the night, indeed night after night. I have never really understood why these teams are usually the first to go whenever we hit a recession? Why do retailers not seem to understand that these specialists are crucial in presenting your product to the customer? I sadly, very often see the most talented people with years of experience being cast aside when the going gets tough. This is one of the biggest mistakes retailers make. These people then sometimes go on to other companies to whom they are ready to swear allegiance too and you have lost vital talent to your competitor. So, come on retailers, in 2010, please remember these people are the most important people in your company (as well as your gate keepers such the personal assistants and Secretaries, of course)

2. Thou shall not use coloured fluorescent lights horizontally, vertically or any other combination or multiple suspended light bulbs. (lamps)

Time and time again we see the use of this type of lighting in schemes globally. My personal photographic archives over several decades illustrate these being used on countless occasions, so Levi and Habitat are not the only culprits here. So, come on creative teams, its time to ditch the coloured fluorescent in 2010.

3. Thou shall maintain retail standards.

I lose track of the amount of times I see poor retail standards. I guess nobody counts on me being around when the store is closed to record these things - but I am. To me this illustrates such a lack of care and I do feel that if this was my home I would certainly be embarrassed to invite anyone in. Wouldn't you? Of course, the store here is closed, however, the brand image is being harmed and to me this just says, "I don't care."

4. Thou shall not use the same Mannequins for every scheme.

Well, what can I say here that I haven't said throughout my previous blogs, other than repeat myself? Do we really have to see the same mannequins used over and over again for every new concept? Of course, its easy to criticise when one does not have to come up with a solution, and therefore, my solution is to have not just one collection of figures but at least two collections so that figures can be rotated over different schemes. I love this Rootstein figure of Yasmin Le Bon, but do we have to see her in every single scheme of every single store in the same skin tone all of the time?

5. Thou shall not use Chandeliers.

Well, just about every multiple retailer in 2009 used Chandeliers in their schemes. Joseph did use them beautifully during the year and and then just about every combination, milking the concept, appeared just every where on the high street. Now, I must say, I do actually love Chandeliers, but come on retailers lets leave them out of the schemes for 2010?

6. Thou shall not use wooden crates to place product on or in.
Well, if there ever was an idea that has been flogged to death it must be the use of wooden crates in a concept. How many more times do we need to see these? I tend to cringe every time they crop up, particularly as they are such a dated concept. As we are two decades post-grunge can we please leave them where they should be - back in the crate place (wherever that may be)

7. Thou shall not use motifs.

As any of my students or graduates will tell you this is my nemesis and I believe the Achilles heal of this industry. If ever there was something to offend a customer (well, me I suppose) it is the use of motifs. Please can we not use them in 2010 when there are so many other ideas that can be used?

8. Thou shall not use the same scheme as the previous year.

I was quite surprised this year to see quite a few schemes resurrected from previous years. Some of the biggest offenders were actually the designer brands, where schemes used in 2008 were repeated in 2009. As we all travel more and more and the places to shop become ever more (sadly) generic do retailers really believe that no one will notice? Or was this just a case of the global recession kicking designer brands where it really hurt - the wallet? Who knows. Anyway, below we have, the usually incredible Louis Vuitton store in London in 2009 and New York 2008. I am a little disappointed that they did this as they really do presentation so superbly well, but who knows what goes on in LVMH towers that made them make the decision to use the scheme twice.

9. Thou shall not use the same idea in as many different combinations as possible.

This is one concept that I felt was absolutely flogged to with in an inch of its life. I have images of this brand throughout 2009 and I think just about every single scheme was based on the same idea. I have long suspected that this is a result of over zealous marketeers - maybe I am wrong? But I cant believe anyone truly creative leading this campaign would do this? I do like this brand but it seems to have really lost its way recently. Anyway, please can we see something different for 2010. We know the brand, we know the logo, we know the print, we know the idea, we recognise it and it is a the forefront of our minds. So, lets do something different now please?

10. Thou shall have a successful 2010....!

Thank you to all of you in 2009 who have commented on the blog so far this year and for all of your kind e-mails - I hope I was able to help you. Anyway, as I am now just a few hours from 2010 while I am writing this and my own fate this year is uncertain, one thing that I am looking forward too seeing this year is this industry bounce back from the global recession and without wanting to sound too corny...... putting the 'Win' back into Windows. Happy New Year..! Jonathan

MarieBelle, New York

No visit to New York would ever be complete for me without visiting my absolute favourite Chocolatier (well actually its the only place I ever buy Chocolates) MarieBelle, 484 Broome St., New York. I always make a beeline here to top up on my Aztec and White Hot Chocolates. I love to handpick my favourite pieces of chocolate too which really are like little jewels and the flavours are incredible. Normally I am not a huge fan of Chocolate (I can hear you all groan at me here) however I must say, I devour these as if they are the last thing I will ever taste. My only problem is that they don't ship to Europe (according the sales assistant) and as security flying back home to London has become ever more, well secure, and bearing in mind that the tins explode in your luggage if you put them in the hold of the aeroplane, I am torn between Cocoa powder covering my out going luggage or risking my treasures being confiscated if I attempt to carry them on my flight. Maybe I will just stock up and scoff the lot in the last few days I have here in the city before I make my way back home to London. Anyway, do go and have a look at this store if only because I say so and stop off and have a fabulous hot Chocolate in the Cacao and Tea bar at the back - pure indulgence.

Acne, New York

While strolling along Greene St. earlier I came across ACNE. My initial impression was that its not a particularly great name for a brand given its association with spotty teenagers (some words clearly dont translate very well) however from some Internet research I discovered it actually means Ambition to Create Novel Expressions. I took a look, so it did its job. I was also drawn inside because of the amazing glass wall they have within the store. Each piece of glass has apparently been hand blown and covers the space from floor to ceiling. Unfortunately 'they' were a little mean and wouldn't allow me to photograph the inside of the store so unfortunately these are the only images I have. Considering there are lots of Internet images of the inside available I felt they were a little precious, but there you go. I considered perhaps I would swing by later and take photos at night time which I would normally do but there are far too many other more interesting things to do and the moment was gone. You may just have to find your way down there and take a look. Anyway, the clothes are actually very beautifully made and the quality is superb. The whole look is perhaps a little sanitised for me however and just a little too perfect and manicured if you consider that the concept was meant to be based on an artists studio and brands such as Anthroplogie do that incredibly well already. Anyway, pop along and have a look even just to have a look at the handmade glass installation.

Chambers A Hotel, New York

VYBXSNR7NBPF I rarely cover hotels as part of my blog although they always intrigue me. I sadly never have the luxury of staying in such places as my budgets are always so minimal, which of course is fine as I rarely spend any time in a hotel when I travel anyway. Although these places do interest me, namely luxury hotels and in particular boutique hotels. A few years ago I was on a mission to check out some of the latest ones such as Time, Night and Dream hotels which are so beautifully designed and worthy of recording. Sadly I can usually never get further than the foyer and so my archived images consist of mainly the front and the immediate inside. Anyway, I came across the Chambers Hotel as big brother informed me that they (or at least someone) had been visiting the blog quite frequently and it would have been rude not to visit them too? Right? Anyway, this is beautifully designed, the front of house team are extraordinarily friendly and when I let the wonderfully pleasant doorman know I that I was going to take a photograph of the front of the hotel - and therefore he would be in it - he kindly offered to close the main doors and stand inside. If ever there was an example of you get what you pay for, then this is it. I managed to take these few images which don't really do it justice, however you can look them up on line and see how beautiful this place really is. In the meantime, I'll be making my way back to my hotel room which is as long as I am tall with communal facilities - well, I guess, you get what you don't pay for too.

Fendi, New York

While recovering from my Christmas hangover in my hotel which seems determined to fry me in the overbearing heating, it was such a treat seeing the Fendi store 677 5th Avenue here in New York. The London store seems to pale by comparison when I saw this store, possibly because the ability to produce such large scheme's is so limited back home. Anyway, here we have immaculately sprayed figures in a Silver sheen finish set against a Bronze mirrored background with the Fendi logo used in a repetitive format. The combination of the Silver and Bronze works incredibly well although for some reason I feel is shouldn't. It seems that this scheme has really been thought through down to the use of the merchandise and that someone somewhere had an overall vision of how this was going to work. And it does. It works superbly well. Everything is as exactly as it should be. What a pleasure.

Nasty Pig, New York

Flitting (or maybe flirting) around Chelsea today and while flaneur-ing the city I happened upon Nasty Pig. Now, I knew of this brand from my own previous cursory research and I believe they began producing apparel with an inclination towards the fetish market (the clue is in the name of the brand). I hadn't realised that they had an actual store and therefore I was quite intrigued to find out a little more about the brand as the merchandise in the windows did not reflect my own preconceived assumptions. Anyway, I had the opportunity to chat to the very helpful Issac before one of the joint owners David Lauterstein arrived to pick up the most adorable little dogs that roamed the store barking at my every move. Apparently the brand has been in development over a period of 16 years with the store opening 8 years ago. The store itself is quite compact and naturally filled with merchandise to maximise footfall, although this is certainly not unshopable. I think I guessed the size of the store as around 5m x 8m. However what is so wonderful - beside the incredibly cutting edge merchandise - are the polished walls, fixtures and the fact that the guys produce their own graphics. I am not normally excited about these things but in conversation with the guys, David and his partner created the whole thing from scratch - I like these kind of people. The whole place is a fantastic example of entrepreneurship and while the brand itself still has room to grow I really am looking forward to following their journey. I will certainly be keeping an eye on them from across the pond when I get back to London before the new season arrives. In the meantime, come down to 265 West 19th Street and get yourself your own slice of Nasty Pig or check them out on-line.

Elizabeth Arden, New York

I cant help but really like this concept at Elizabeth Arden on 5th Avenue. At night time while I flaneur the city in search of these elusive concepts which day light seems to kill, I happened upon this store. It was undoubtedly the glow of the pinkish red light that drew me across the main shopping avenue here in New York. I believe this is one of the Red Door spas? Now, I don't normally frequent these places as they tend to be so female dominated and certainly as it is Elizabeth Arden why would I venture past the facade anyway? However as it happens they do actually cater for a male clientele too. I too was quite surprised. I can, however, shave myself quite easily and do so within a matter of minutes so I have never quite understood why anyone would want to go somewhere to be shaved - possibly because I find the thought rather irritating. Anyway, beyond the terrible reviews that I found and I have to keep in mind that we don't always take the time to write good things but we all tend to complain quite quickly. The place itself does look great. Maybe I will drop by one day if I ever have the inclination to reshape my eyebrows or have warm stones on my back and neck. I probably wont, but the place does at least have a warm glow which is quite soothing when its so cold here.

Jet Blue: The Flyers Collection, New York

On my way back to my very unlavish, every expense spared hotel accommodation I came across the Jet Blue store on 48 9th Avenue in the meatpacking district opposite the Apple Store which lifted my spirits in this New York cold weather. I am not wholly familiar with this brand of low cost airline, as, I guess they don't fly through Europe (not that I don't fly at low cost whenever possible) but I felt compelled to record this as the marketing is quite fantastic. The whole concept is based around the what does happen when you fly on cheap no frills airlines. Here we have their solution for the lack of space with their full body compression garment, designed to compress your body into a mass better suited to those tiny seats. One of my favourite's is the Extrago Sherpa Shirt in the image above which can hold an entire trips worth of necessities. The whole concept here is hilariously brilliant and I can honestly say their ideas are the best thing that I have seen so far in this wonderful city.

Juicy Couture, New York

I found the Juicy Christmas scheme in London rather confusing when I saw it a few weeks ago. I think I must have caught it in mid-installation as it simply didn't seem to make any sense to me. Anyway, even better than the London store is the Juicy Couture site on 5th Avenue here in New York. This enormous site really is a spectacle worth viewing. The Christmas 'Circus' scheme really works particularly well in such large windows here. Figures being shot from a cannon, acrobats and even a figure strapped to one of the boards as if a 'target girl' in the art of impalement. Anyway, do have a look at this scheme which I feel works incredibly well now that I have seen it in its entirety.

Louis Vuitton, New York

Situated One East 57th St. is the amazing Louis Vuitton store. Having followed this stores schemes for several years they really do produced the most incredible concepts - as one would expect from a flagship. Here the scheme has been designed by students from my own University, at our sister college Central St. Martins College of Art and Design. This is the second scheme designed by the students at the college that I have seen since this store opened and they really are quite stunning. Previously schemes have also been produced by huge artists such as Olafur Eliasson from Denmark and which could be seen across the world. Here the students have used the old solari flap display boards that used to be so widespread at railway stations and airports across the globe before so many now have been replaced by the LED style boards we now see. Anyway, the concept and notion of travel displayed here is quite romantic one, which is in no way a criticism. It is beautifully produced and worth taking a look at.

ShoeWoo, New York

While flaneur-ing the city this week around Lexington Avenue I found this incredible store ShoeWoo at 750 Lexington Avenue on 59th. I have never seen this store before and the incredible interior space and window scheme certainly warranted some attention. I know nothing about this brand at all and after some cursory research I am still none the wiser apart from a couple of Internet pages that seem to read in 'Engrish' - you know the kind of thing, Instructions for the tourist, Yes.! We Sale..!, No Photing, and so on. So I am unable to share much more with you other than the images here. Anyway, what is quite incredible about the space here is the use of hundreds of shoes that have been used to cover the pillar in the centre of the store. I really do like this idea and yet find it simultaneously unnerving. I feel my European sensibility kicking in and having viewed the hundreds of Holocaust visuals over the years this always springs to mind when I seen hundreds of pairs shoes or spectacles used within schemes. I know this is perhaps just me and this concept is undoubtedly completely removed from any reference to the Holocaust. Alternatively, they also do look a little like bones that have been used to decorate the crypts and bone chapels of the Capuchin monks in Italy. Therefore, while the image here is actually a very cheery one is it seems to me to be also quite chilling. Anyway, they sell shoes and visually this space works incredibly well, I just wish I could find out a little more about this brand.

Moschino, New York

While perusing the stores in the meatpacking district in New York this week in the biting cold I came across the Moschino Christmas concept at its store 401 West 14th St. This store in particular does present some really fun schemes. Here we have Santa in therapy talking to an extraordinarily well heeled therapist - dressed in Moschino's finest of course. With all of our self imposed stress of the Season (although I feel far from stressed myself) is there any wonder the poor man is in need of help? I only wish the scheme had been extended to the second window in the store as part of this narrative rather than the two figures seen in the image below. Of course the space is much smaller but I feel something could have been done here. Anyway, the White interior space of the store looks magnificent with incredible furniture and it is so beautifully lit, although I do wish designers would leave that dreadful heart motif out of their concept. Although, on reflection, this is America and they do seem to like that kind of stuff.

Marc Jacobs, New York

Having flaneured the city for days already collecting and gathering my visual resources I came across the Marc Jacobs scheme here on Bleeker st. I have no connection to this cause but it certainly seems a very worthy one. I believe one can have a photograph taken for a small donation to save the life of Alice and her son Billy. The images themselves then form part of the installation. What I find so wonderful about this scheme beside the cause is the the concept itself and the interaction between customer and retailer. Again this is a fantastic localised example of creativity which I really wish some of the major players out there, in here, somewhere or just elsewhere would follow. Of course this does rely on having creative's available to do this, but in this global recession it seems that they are the first people to lose their jobs. Anyway, in the mean time, go on, swing by the store on Bleeker st. and give your donation before the 24th December.