100% Design, London

If you haven't been to 100% Design yet, what are you doing?  OK, I know we are all busy (and please don't think I'm sat here burrowed somewhere and behind my laptop sending this to you from the show)  by the time you receive this (thanks to modern technology) I've already moved on to my next show at Tent in East London.  This year at 100% I have found some real gems to keep me feeling inspired and cleansed.  Of course there are the usual wooden floors - real and faux - in every possible tone and material you care to mention and a lot of them too.  There is the usual stuff recycled and Eco friendly, baths and sinks in 'fashionable' colours - Jacuzzis too - wallpapers and stuff I never knew I needed, but clearly I do .  The new materials available for us to use are delicious and I certainly found some new suppliers for my own work.  There seems to be a big and environmentally unfriendly bias towards everything encapsulated in resin - you name it, its been 'resined'.  I have always loved this material (although not the fumes) and it can look incredibly cool used creatively, some suppliers have.  Lighting is a little hit and miss although there are some interesting and in some cases quite sculptural uses of MDF.  Anyway, you still have time to get yourself there, so go on, its Friday.

London Design Week, Love me Live with Me

After a great afternoon scouring 100% Design here in London with new product launches and inspiration oozing from every pore to share with you, one of the best bits for me must be the small barrow just placed outside the venue.  I didn't understand this concept at first, but it doesn't matter.  The guys here are so incredibly friendly, there's no hidden agenda, they just want the opportunity to talk to you and to share the concept with you and for you to share your thoughts with them. "Designed & Made will be giving away over 2,000 items worth over £5,000 specially commissioned from North East based designer makers. They will be given away from an antique market barrow, which will be parked at key locations across London over the nine days of London Design Festival taking place between 18-27 September. The converted barrow has been used as a base on which to build a miniature cityscape of individual vessels each containing multiple items."  "The items have been designed to cause intrigue and to make an impact on the temporary owner’s lives. Items to be distributed include a 9-5 clock by Jonathan Aspinall; taxidermied mice head jewellery by Janet Allison; a poetry family on name labels by Alec Finlay; ‘ Titillation’ handmade, suggestive glass vessels by Gavin Marshall Glass; reusable porcelain memo pad by Helena Seget; ‘You Drink, I Drink’ double wine glasses by Kathryn Hodgkinson; ‘Identity Theft’ brooches by Megan Randall and a graffitiable clock by Amy Levinson" The objects will be the property of the recipient for one week and in return they will be asked to submit their thoughts and photos to a blog on www.lovemelivewithme.com and to pass the object on to another recipient of their choice." "The objects will pass around the country until mid December creating a map of their route and relationships with their temporary owners as they travel. An exhibition or publication of the used objects and the comments they collected along the way is planned."

What an incredible concept.  This is something that I can see working incredibly well at Selfridges.  Selfridges are really quite forward thinking when it comes to these kind of ideas so I really do hope that they find these guys and install it within their Oxford st. site, even for just a short time.  As a customer, this is certainly something which I would like to see and to be part of.  How exciting..!  In the meantime, you must check out these guys at www.lovemelivewithme.org.uk

Poetry Name tags, Image Copyright Alec Finlay

Eek Ring, Image Copyright Janet Allison

Ceramic Medals, Image Copyright Claire Baker

Cardboard Clocks, Image Copyright Amy Levinson

Tiffany, London

I know I ranted a little last week at Diesel's window as so many of you told me so, and quite right too. However, one thing all of your messages had in common was that you all agreed that the scheme had appeared to have been 'lifted' from other brands that I had compared them too. Well, in addition to that previous post we have all seen enormous umbrellas used as props within some of the luxury brand stores over the past few months from Prada to Hermes, following down through the chain of mid-range 'multiples' such as Banana Republic to the bottom of the pile currently at Primark and we understand this process. However, luxury brand to luxury brand is another issue altogether albeit over a longer period of time. I am a huge fan of Tiffany as they do produce the most exceptional presentations although this one installed just prior to Vogue's Fashion's night out, rang alarm bells in me. Having recorded the visual merchandising schemes in New York for the past 15 years at the same time each year and almost daily in London, I did recall seeing something similar and looking through my archives, in 2008, Emilo Pucci, and below at Mui Mui and if I remember correctly Mikimoto had already produced something so incredibly similar to the current global Tiffany scheme that I am a little embarrassed to share this with you. Rather than rant again that no one is looking beyond their own brand to establish what has happened previously 'out there' and that no-one (at least that I am aware of) is doing as I do in constantly collecting this information, I will leave you to decide what you think. I am not of course suggesting in the slightest that the scheme has been plagiarised as these things do happen, however luxury brand to luxury brand - risky stuff. I would have thought that it was someones role within these brands to ensure that this doesn't happen as we have seen the consequences of luxury brands pursuing those who copy their merchandise even though that of course is clearly deliberate, but are they pursuing anyone who has the same / similar scheme two years later? probably not - well at least not yet.

Prada, London

One of the interesting things I find about this store is how they change the use of their presentation space. It doesn't, I feel, always work wonderfully well (but that's just me), but they do do it, which should be applauded and this is quite a creative use of a relatively small space. Occasionally they open up the space to reveal views into the store and alternate this with small enclosed show case type spaces focusing the customers eye on the details of the installation and the product. Here we have the use of Black and White images in a repetition format forming the background to the figures wearing the product. Interestingly the figures themselves do rather jar with the fluidity of the human images in the background, but I guess that's the nature of so many mannequin collections which are often placed in poses in which they were never meant to be which makes them look quite awkward. Still, what the creative team here have done is perhaps to consider how they can utilise their current collection of figures but changing them by covering the faces to which we are ordinarily drawn and within which we are able to find the reflected us, or not. This is not the most lavish scheme I've seen from this brand, but who cares, it works well, its simple, it does what it does and maybe will send a message to smaller independent retailers that you don't have to spend huge amounts of money after all to look good.

Tata Naka, London Fashion Week

Tata Naka, aka Natasha and Tamara Surguladze, celebrated their first 10 years in the fashion industry with this incredible show last night. They "presented their personal interpretation of cultural clash between opulence of the Indian Maharajah and Western simplicity". "Inspired by Colonial India, the period of dramatic changes and the way Indian civilisation adapted to British culture, dressing and education is interpreted by combining structured western tailoring with soft shapes and draping typical in Indian dress". Interestingly with the very 'Blue' light that we experience in the UK in which Indian colours tend to dull made absolutely no difference - the collection is truly amazing. The full flavour of the collection of course was underpinned with the incredible installation from Chameleon Visual (oh you must know them by now as they produced the incredible Ostriches at Louis Vuitton). Fabulously coloured jelly in vintage tea cups were served to all of the major players here in attendance from brilliant Silver hostess trolleys. Ceramic Parrots, silver candelabras, glass stands and the most delicious flowers and furniture created the focal point around which this show hung. True to form, Ms. Davidge (Chameleon Visual) simply dissolved away into the background as if she were never there.......she was......somewhere, but no egos were stroked, the job was done to the perfection this wonderfully formidable woman demands and perfectly beautiful in its execution. You must have Chameleon Visual on speed dial (they are incredibly selective so don't expect a reply) http://www.chameleonvisual.com

Nicole Farhi, London Fashion Week

After and exhausting day of shows for London Fashion week, here are just some of my highlights. The Nicole Farhi show at the Royal Opera House here in London was jammed to the rafters (quite literally) with paparazzi, fashionista and just about every glossy magazine globally. From my vantage point I was able to view the viewers veiwing the specatacle which was met with gasps and salivating wows. I must admit it was a very stunning show and with the prescence of the alpha editors Anna Wintour, Susie Menkes and Hilary Alexander of course added to the whole experience too.

Chameleon Visual, London

Image Courtesy and Copyright Emma Davidge

With mass branding polluting the high street it is always so exciting to find hidden gems around and to share these with you. If you haven’t seen the incredible Ostriches at Louis Vuitton (or the previous installation both of which can been seen here in earlier entries) or Theo Fennell at Harrods, Tata Naka, Vogue….the list reads like a who’s who of top names, then where have you been?
If you don’t know the company who produces this incredibly visual stuff, I’m not surprised. One of this industry’s best kept secrets has to be Chameleon Visual headed by the ever talented Emma Davidge remained under my radar for some time although through pure serendipity our paths crossed at a recent event. Oozing the energy that one wishes one could bottle, Davidge is simultaneously wonderfully inspirational and incredibly exhilarating to spend time with. As Davidge herself says, “you either love me or hate me”. I myself prefer the former.
With her straight-talking-telling-like-it-is-pulling-no-punches attitude working fiercely to achieve her creative outcomes, her clients have her undivided attention. Perfectly courteous and oozing with passion, she won’t necessarily be your new best friend – she doesn't have time - but you will have her full and undivided attention. While many competitors may have a ‘take no prisoners’ philosophy in this competitive industry, Davidge can be found forming and developing close working relationships with Artists, Artisans and Designers to enhance the client and customer experience rather than spending countless hours undermining those around her.
Once the brand / event / exhibition or any other project has been delivered to Davidge’s absolute satisfaction, don’t expect her to hang around and stroke your ego, she wont. The next job is calling (or has certainly already called) and like the wonderful ephemeral creature she is, she will dissolve into the background reforming and regrouping her team ready for the next ‘selected’ job in hand.
As a self confessed “control freak” I imagine she’s one very tough person to work with. Having said that of course, one could argue that as the outcomes she delivers are so superb that how could she not be? And if she weren't, would the outcomes have been so notable in the first instance?
Davidge is probably one of the few people that I am aware of who truly understands luxury brands and is able to think beyond just one brand in one site in one city but also considers how her latest creation will travel and adapt to their new surroundings and wow the next audience without compromising its design. If you happen to swing by any of her installations whatever time of day or night one can always find tourists, passers-by, shoppers, drivers, lovers, all stop and capture the spectacle produced by Davidge. Now that’s powerful.
One may, of course wonder, that with Davidge being so demanding of herself and her team and with work produced with such intricate precision and at this incredible level, if she wears thigh high military leather boots with very sharp spiked heels when working? Well, possibly, but only if they are this seasons Louboutin’s of course.

http://www.retailstorewindows.com/ proposed new entry for Wikipedia:
Davidge Control is “the term used to describe a person, passionate about their work in the context of visual merchandising and the actions of a wonderfully creative self confessed control freak, expecting excellence and delivering nothing less.

http://www.chameleonvisual.co.uk/

Image Courtesy and Copyright Emma Davidge

Image Courtesy and Copyright Emma Davidge

Lynda Carter aka Wonder Woman

Have you had a surreal moment recently? I have. Can you imagine one of your teen icons, well, OK not quite one of my icons but certainly part of my growing up entertainment, standing in front of you just a few metres away? Having spent the evening in a "personal, unrecorded moment" with Lynda Carter, otherwise known as Wonder Woman with her enormous hair, golden lasso and stars and stripes revealing outfit, I feel strangely unhinged. Singing her way through a multitude of cover songs, kind of lounge lizardesque jazzy kind of stuff that these old Hollywood 'stars' of yesteryear seem to do every time they come to London to do their one / two night shows here. I was compelled to go and see this show. Part of me wanted my illusions completely shattered. I was pleasantly surprised that actually the former Miss. America from the early 1970's, Lynda Carter really does have a very good voice and was actually very entertaining - it clearly was my frame of reference that was at fault here. I do still cringe however when I hear the saccharin apple pie stuff although I feel that I was desperately and cynically trying to find the flaws in this whole event. Well, truth be known and to give Lynda Carter credit she actually delivered far more than I expected. I'm not completely won over however, as the whole show promotion was hung around the Wonder Woman stuff, but that's marketing for you. Still, this was the last show, it did what it said on the tin. I am still a little in Surreal mode though.

Zara, London

As regular readers will know, I'm not a huge fan of large 'multiple' brands and their out-of-the-manual-schemes, although while this brand do their usual brand stuff, they clearly allow this store here along Oxford st. in the centre of it 'all' to be rather more edgy - thankfully. This scheme contains the product, but is styled in such a way with its multiple layers of complexity, giving it the kind of depth one would always wish to view from this brand. I do love the product anyway and have shopped here many times with them but am even more drawn in to peruse this store in particular just to be part of this experience. With its vintage mannequin head, theatrical mirror, bandaged utensil head dresses, gramophone and furniture, how could one not enjoy it. So much to view in one relatively tiny space, that one cant help but feel drawn in and want to investigate a little further. If all of these stores shared the same philosophy I wouldn't have time to work as the pull of this kind of spectacle is so compelling and potent, at least to me. Anyway, do go and have a look at what these guys have produced, they clearly have their fingers on the fashion pulse and if you want to know whats 'happening' but cant afford McQueen or Vuitton, then check out this store.

Diesel, London

Having really enjoyed the schemes from this brand for quite a long time and particularly this store along Bond St. here in London which always produces something a little different from so many of its other stores. I am, I must admit a little disappointed with this scheme, not because it doesn't work or that I don't like it (because I do), I just feel that I have seen it all before - and I have. As so few people (it seems) follow the windows around the world, or at least either admit it or talk about it, perhaps these brands think that no-one 'out there' will notice that the same / similar scheme has appeared elsewhere and that its OK to repeat the same scheme in another format or another material for an unrelated brand. Is it? Well, I do feel a little cheated when I see this kind of thing happening. If you turned up to a party wearing the same outfit as someone else, would you go home? grin embarrassed? stay and laugh about it? Or be philosophical about it? As you can see from the images below, both Louis Vuitton and Dior (2008) have previously already installed something similar albeit in a different material and I have to wonder who is actually creating these schemes at Diesel and how much knowledge they actually have? Big brother informs me that this brand check out this site and blogs per se are usually about whats happening out there, in here or at least somewhere and have a direct role in marketing and influence (perhaps to a point). I would have produced something quite different for you based on an informed process, however, you never asked me.

House of Fraser, London

I was strangely drawn to this scheme at House of Fraser while perusing and flaneuring Oxford street here in London the other evening. Barbara Hulanicki must be 'kerchinging' this month from her haven in Miami whilst this brand promote London Fashion week from this one tiny window - and incidentally on the side of buses etc. Clearly this is a sign of bigger things to come but I just cant drag myself to google to find out what is going on out of sheer lethargy of the google lifestyle and Bing world that I find myself in. However, I do love the Black finish on these mannequins with their, just almost, Clockwork Orange eyelashes. It does look wonderful and the team here have done a fantastic job which I have great joy in sharing with you, however, I must admit that these 20th Century references to nostalgia bore me to tears. How often to we need to rake this stuff up, hey? If its not the 40's, its the 50's. If its not the 50's its the 60's. I know we live on an island but do we need to have the dull Cool, Rule (and all the other adjectives) Britannia mentality for much longer from which we seem to need to define ourselves? Can we just be British, creative and move forward (and supported in that please Prime Minister) and ultimately simply be confident and enjoy the country and world rather than be told by some populist dross glossy 'trend' glam rags that we should keep digging around in the past which clearly is where this stuff comes from?

Selfridges, London

I think Selfridges here in London has a new shoe department? OK well, judging from their latest scheme they clearly have. You have to admire the humour of this scheme from the ever creative team here. It is subtle in places and unashamedly and wonderfully brash in others. Based on popular nursery rhymes the scheme takes us on a journey of just about every combination and perspective to communicate this (they have a lot of windows). Movable parts, giant shoes, the old lady who lived in a shoe, Dorothy (or rather a friend of) in glittery bow tied flats screams from another window. If you pop along the side of the store there is an even greater treat of concept shoes that would make Lady Gaga salivate - maybe she already has these who knows. Anyway, in the tradition of department stores, from an historical perspective, one could stay all day here to enjoy the spectacle, so why don't you.