Gucci, London

Gucci, London.

Fortnum and Mason, London

If you want to view quality of product presentation you can do no worse than look toward Fortnum and Mason here in London. With painstaking and meticulous detail these guys strive for excellence, achieving nothing less. Their current fantasy woodland scheme with church ruins, brick walls and trees carrying their exquisite product, out sized toadstools and mossy bases is their latest offering to the high street. I know how hard these guys work and I always look forward to capturing their schemes. This is a traditional style of presentation which requires absolute dedication - text book stuff really. Also, the skills and knowledge that these guys have are sadly dying with so many 'multiple' retailers on the high street producing out-of-the-manual-stuff, so if you want or need to know how to do this kind of work correctly with the same conviction and authority that these guys have then keep following them, and you cant go wrong.
Unfortunately, my images don't do this scheme justice, so if you can, swing by the store and have a look for yourself.

Fashion's Night out, London, 2010

After a whirlwind of an evening of stores to visit, images to capture and record, eavesdropping on all of the 'working-the-floor' excuses why someone from somewhere should be allowed into the store right now, polished Porche's, glittery Bentley's, security guards ten to the dozen, high heeled wannabees, hasbeens, neverwerebeens, oh you name it, they were all here tonight. Camera phones, pocket cameras, paparazzi, telescopic lenses, were in abundance. Cocktails, mocktails, juices and Champagne flowed all evening. I limited myself to the centre of town tonight even though my invitations stretched across the whole of the city although how many places can one realistically do? And so I limited myself to the places that I was interested in seeing for myself. Anyway, it was incredibly buzzing along Bond St. here in the centre of London for this amazing event. I wandered and weaved through the crowds and here are just a selection of some of the images. This was an incredibly exciting event and if you weren't there or couldn't get there, well maybe next time, for now enjoy the images.


Bluey Robinson playing at Nicole Farhi, London

Gary Wright and Sheila Teague at Teague and Wright - the nicest and friendliest people you could ever meet.

Tata Naka, London (there may be trouble ahead guys, get those scrubbing brushes out)

Kenzo, London

Michael Kors, London

Daks.......excellent, thank you Daks creative team

Lladro, London

I've always felt that this kind of merchandise is quite difficult to present well. Its small and detailed and ordinarily would have been placed within much smaller illuminated showcase environments in order to focus the viewers eye toward the piece in question, possibly with a glossy enlarged image behind it - although everyone does it so I would almost certainly avoid this. As Lladro along Piccadilly have quite an open space this does make their job very difficult, however there are a whole range of solutions which before now they have never seemed to have adopted. I was quite compelled to show this one to you as I do think this is actually a great solution to their perpetual presentation problem as it is clear they are not going to reduce the size of their fenestration to accommodate their merchandise - it would have been advisable to have done this in the first instance as the merchandise is simply lost in the volume of space they have. Here in the store Lladro have placed the merchandise on these - probably laser cut - cardboard 'environments' in bright Yellow. What this does of course is immediately draw us in to these tiny 'spaces'. Some of the cut outs have been flipped up although I cant quite work out what they actually are? This could have been a great opportunity to have created a kind of narrative using alternating flipped bits to either spell something, tell a story, information about the product, reveal a brand name.....the list goes on. Obviously this is quite an inexpensive scheme, but there were opportunities to have taken this a lot further than they have. I know a few things that I would have spelt out here for a bit of fun, including 'Lladro', of course.

Roberto Foddai, Photographer

Image Courtesy and Copyright Roberto Foddai

Image Courtesy and Copyright Roberto Foddai

Contemporary commercial spaces and places with ever (sadly) growing prevalence of homogenised multiples’ retail experiences, using a multitude of large format graphics in every combination one would care to mention seem more and more to be exploding images on to the high street of the latest ‘darling’ of the internet or the celebrity-turned-designer (I always wonder if they actually design anything at all – probably not?). Often so many contain unknown faces of people no-one has never heard of - although one feels one should know them - unless you happen to be fourteen years old (maybe I’m showing my age here). With this mass pollution of the high St., it seems an ever impossible task to suggest alternatives and overcome at least a little, the might of these global chain stores and the way that they present their product to us in and throughout their commercial spaces. If there isn’t a formula and it hasn’t been budgeted to the penny or dime then very few companies seem to want to know that there are in fact a multitude of opportunities yet to be explored. It seems an even greater task too, to wrench the creative process out of the hands of the number crunchers and uncreative marketing. Personally, I don’t actually care that my hair has got its mojo back – or that it lost it - although what little hair I do have left, I grew myself. No suburban Russians former locks are going to be glued to my mane of spun Gold thanks very much. And so it seems that, at least for now, we are destined to live here in large format and bland ‘Graphic land’ for some time yet.
However perhaps we can look beyond the latest glossy gossip rag promoting the latest nobody-who-has-ever-done-anything-significant rut that we find ourselves in and inject perhaps a little more thought and depth into the process?
With a little scratching below the surface and a quick trawl around the internet, a visit to an exhibition or gallery, one can find some real gems ‘in here’ and ‘out there’ and none more so than photographer Roberto Foddai. Foddai, of Sardinian origin has worked in London for well over a decade. I found him through pure serendipity and was immediately drawn to his work. With his series of images, such as Men Wearing Dresses (stick that in Prada’s windows why don’t you?) Despair, Strength, the Hitler series, and portraits of Catherine AD, Foddai explores a range of narratives developed through social story telling. Exploring the complex layers of what it means to be human, he unravels some of its complexities and opens a discussion for us to decide what we think rather than telling us what he thinks we should think. The areas which Foddai explores are initially perhaps seemingly a little confrontational, although this is very much from an intellectual rather than an aggressive perspective. He confronts and challenges, through Men wearing Dresses, for example, the whole essence of masculinity and what we perceive this to be. It is the emotional discomfort that Foddai captures in his images of these very masculine men photographed while wearing female apparel. New concepts for images are also developed through the product itself, most of which are found items or purchased second hand and therefore are already loaded with their own narratives and sense of journey before Foddai reinvents and challenges their original context and purpose while simultaneously capturing the outcome.
If we can persuade commercial monoliths to at least scratch a little beyond the latest reality television programme winner and/or adopt the kind thinking and working that Roberto Foddai does, surely we could all live with the pollution of the high street a little better? I’m not suggesting however that Topshop design dresses for men or that L'Oreal suddenly adopts images of a vulnerable Hitler, this would be a literal translation of Foddai’s work, however, with a little more thought, depth and selection of visuals surely this would make the high St. rather more interesting? In the meantime, c’mon then Hitler lets say it, "because we’re worth it".

http://robertofoddai.com/

Image Courtesy and Copyright Roberto Foddai

Image Courtesy and Copyright Roberto Foddai

Liberty, Fashion's Night Out

This week in London we can look forward to the events of Vogue's Fashion's night out. One thing I am particularly looking forward to seeing is the Manolo Blahnik Pop up store at Liberty here in London. Apparently Blahnik himself is also directing the Christmas scheme here which will be particularly interesting to see, and you can guarantee I'll be there to record it for you. I've only ever seen one Blahnik store which was in the Mall of Dubai in the worlds shopping mecca itself, although like many of the stores with big brand names in Dubai they are mostly franchises and the store wasn't particularly impressive although one has to wonder how much the man himself had to do with it (you can track back into the archives on the site to see some visuals of it) Anyway, with tonnes of events happening this week, I will be out with my camera to record what I can and share my images with you later this week. In the mean time swing by Liberty and have a look at the temporary store, I'll be there and I don't even buy this stuff, but we can all at least just enjoy the spectacle.

Max Mara, London

One of my favourite paintings in the world must be Jan Van Eycks, The Arnolfini Portrait, where the use of a convex mirror reflection in the background of the portrait reveal his (the painter) own presence. I do find mirrors within schemes a fascinating concept which have been enormously unexplored within retail design and visual merchandising. We, as viewers, are simultaneously captured elsewhere within the scheme in the mirrors reflection while the product acts as an instrument of imitation capturing the reality (at least in part). Our reflection ensures our participation within the scheme while being able to view the front and back of the fashion merchandise. This is the commercial angle. The perpetual image captured here at Max Mara with its intelligent use of tube lighting absolutely fascinates me. While figures are used as a reflection of oneself, here we have the addition of a mirror which also reflects us and thus ensures that we feel part of this scheme or at least a little more than we would have otherwise. If we feel included we are more likely to make a purchase. Interesting stuff. And we thought we were just looking at a box with a mirror in it.

Diesel, London

Steel Chains, paper chains, steel wigs. Diesel is probably one of the coolest multiples right now on the high street. Interesting and entertaining this scheme is their latest treat for us. Using the currently fashionable monochromatic tones with just a hint of colour in the form of accessories and / or props these figures look incredible. Their slightly disheveled Renaissance wigs placed on the heads of these Gray sprayed featureless mannequins are perfectly unkempt and work exceptionally well. How incredible that in this tiny space the creative have delivered so much. Testament that you don't need lavish schemes to have impact. Great.

KSHT, London

Images courtesy and copyright KSHT

While perusing one of my early 20th century copies of ‘Display’, from my archives recently, it is particularly interesting to see how this industry has developed from tiny product showrooms such as Siegal & Stockman, the Pilot sign Co. Ltd telling us to “scrap our old Fascia’s and modernise our fronts” to Super-tools’ adverts selling us “Super Aids to Super Display” (meanings of words clearly change over time) all based in places such as Newman St., Grays in Road and Berners St. How times have changed – almost unrecognisable from this industry’s origins with consultancies such as KSHT providing all of these things and a lot more. All of these original companies are long gone (at least in London) and 21st Century living and working demand that we perform in ever more sophisticated and ultimately faster ways. As demands from ever more digitally savvy customers or consumers (depending on the product) also becomes ever more difficult to satisfy, retailers are continuing to look outside of their own in house, often energy sapped teams for inspiration, information, and a little bit of hand holding. Companies often dictated to by over zealous marketing and penny pinching accountants are often afraid to cross the line into what, in contemporary society seems out of their realm of expertise, that of creativity.
With clients ranging from Mulberry, Fred Perry, Harvey Nichols, Jimmy Choo to Ben Sherman, KSHT based in South London know how to inspire you, inform you and I think will hold your hand if you ask them nicely. KSHT led by Kathryn Scanlan and Howard Tong have a least forty years experience between them in this industry having worked with a lot of big names prior to starting their own company. From taking an initial brief, development of the concept and helping you navigate your way though the process with boundless confidence, this incredible team are informed, clearly talented and have a wealth of intelligent experience with which to guide any client. Concepts are thoroughly researched, developed, tested and produced on time and on budget. Their current projects are particularly exciting (I’ll have to pop the cyanide pill if I reveal too much) however, check out their site here and be assured that if you are one of those countless companies with demanding customers and you are in need of inspiration, information or may be some reassurance, you must check these guys out. As your customers are becoming more sophisticated don’t you need to be too? www.ksht.co.uk

Images courtesy and copyright KSHT.

Fred Perry, London

I've never included Fred Perry before on this site. Possibly because they are quite low key these days and perhaps their merchandise tends to form collections within larger stores rather than being contained within a solus site? I don't know. May be they have lost their cool? Who knows? Anyway, it was quite a treat to find this store further along Newburgh street while meandering around town and recorded this for you as it is quite a simple yet fun scheme. Launching their new clocktion (their words not mine, so please don't groan at me) Fred Perry have used these analogue clocks in a repetition format on the base of this scheme with additional clocks placed in the neck of the bust forms. Someone has obviously been ebaying or cleared out their attic or garage and used one of those retro embossed label makers to announce the launch of their new collection. These have been adhered to the outside of the fenestration (I quite like that). Anyway, I could be picky and say that if one looks at advertisements for clocks and watches the hands are always placed at 10.10, 1.50, 7.20 or 4.40 (I bet you never noticed before hey?) in order to frame the brand logo. However, I am glad that these guys have broken the rules as the clock brands in this case are not important and it is perhaps the timeless quality of the brand that this is more representative of? Ultimately, its fun and simple, so lets just enjoy.

Beyond the Valley, London

Throughout 2010, we have seen the growing trend of the 'handmade' with increasing frequency - although this seems to be dying a little as the economy has picked up. With the launch of Anthropologie a year ago along Regent st. and subsequently on the Kings Rd. here in London, I do hope that this has encouraged smaller retail spaces and places to use localised creativity in the presentation of their product. Here along Newburgh St. teetering along the edge of Soho is Beyond the Valley. I know nothing about this brand / independent retailer other than I was drawn in by their incredible installation. OK their product presentation needs attention although I find it interesting that these guys have created such an interesting environment in which to sell their product, so I guess they're half way there. Anyway, the creative here has used these pieces of perforated plastic in a schoal of fish-like format suspended with the display persons old faithful piece of kit - invisible thread. On closer inspection, they have of course used plastic knives which seem to have been drilled with a plethora of small holes. Ultimately the underlying message is a very personal one, although of course we are not excluded but in fact very much included and therefore this is a great leap forward. We just need to sort out this product and its presentation and then we're done.

G-Star, London

I've really grown to liking this brand. They have produced some really fascinating and creative product presentations which continue to impress and surprise me. For such an enormous global brand this is a remarkable achievement which I feel indicates how well they are run and by people who are clearly passionate about what they do. Their website too is quite visually mesmerising which oozes the coolness indicative of denim brands. Here the brand have produced these three dimensional look books "re-introducing [their] raw essentials, elevating everyday denim to a highly refined mix of vintage and modern". Product encapsulated within these 'books' have been been over laid with cut outs in black which suggests this fusion. The backdrop has been produced in bright yellow hanging banner. This is such a good example of how something quite simple can be thought through and communicated to have impact. I was drawn in to take a closer look, job done. I'd work with these guys.

Louis Vuitton, London

In response to all of your wonderful and overwhelming messages.....here are larger and some additional images further to today's post as you all requested.